Today marks the halfway point on this summer assignment. I have now spent five weeks in Africa and I have five weeks to go. A few days ago we had dinner with our friend from the Peace Corps, Bilal, because he is leaving to go back home to New York later this week. Before he left, he asked us if we ever experienced what he called “the epiphany moment.” This is the moment where you suddenly stop and remember that, “wow, I’m in Africa right now.” And yes, I have one of these almost every day.
Before we left we were warned about those warm, fuzzy feeling you can get about the people or the country you are in. First of all, to keep a realistic picture in your head about where you are and the concerns that need to be addressed. On the flip side, not to get discouraged or lose your passion for service if you lose those feelings.
While being here I have had the opportunity to learn a little bit about the people and the history of this country. I have not lost my passion for service, but I would definitely say that the warm, fuzzy feeling has ended.
Liberia is a war-torn country, there’s no doubt about that. I hear a lot about the days before the wars and how things were different then. Now, however, everything seems run down and somewhat gloomy, especially in the area where I am staying. From Tubmanburg it is a straight ride to the capital, Monrovia, on a paved road no less. So naturally this town was of particular importance for both the government troops and the rebels during the two civil wars Liberia recently had.
During the wars there was fighting in all the outstations I’ve visited, except for one which was apparently the only town to effectively fight off both government and rebel soldiers. And the fighting was brutal, little food, if any, was accessible to the people, and children were even taken as soldiers to fight on both sides. Fr. Garry stayed throughout the wars, however. He was threatened numerous times, fired upon, and was even taken by the rebels for a time for his own “protection.”
This was undoubtedly a hard time physically, emotionally, and spiritually for everyone involved. James Brabazon, the author of My Friend the Mercenary, was possibly the only journalist to be on the front line to capture video and stories of the struggles from the rebel front. And he said that, “West Africa pulled like iron on the needle of my moral compass. I was struggling to keep it pointing true.”
No matter what loss or trials they have experienced from these wars, however, the people of Liberia are still as hospitable and courteous as any group I’ve ever met. Not only to me, but I have seen the care that they show to one another, as well. The love they have for their neighbor whose house has been broken into, whose family member died, or whose friend is gravely sick.
James Brabazon made another comment that amidst the war and increasing amorality, the interactions with the children he met brought about a bit of romance of the Great European Explorers. In the same way, the people I meet (especially the children) show me a great hope in this country, and I have no doubt that the love of God will see them through.
-Dan
written 07/13/11
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